Route Setting

New Route Setting dates added!

Monday, May 19th, 2014 - Posted by Danie

We’ve just updated our Route Setting calendar on the website with new dates through until October.  This can be viewed here.

This is the best place to find out what we have up and coming and to keep on top of knowing when your projects are going to get taken down and replaced with spangly new ones!

Having adjusted our setting schedule, we’re very pleased to announce that we will be able to move the main overhang sets at Guildford to being 4 monthly and without affecting the standard and frequency of routes being set at Craggy.  The next set will be carried out during the week beginning Monday 16th of June with the following one being scheduled in already for October.  Having also just placed a rather large order for new holds for the set in June we’re very sure you won’t be disappointed!

This week, Mark will be setting the newer top-roping and lead lines at the back of the centre – lines 92-100.  He will then move on to the 50’s and set line numbers 50-57.

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Sutton CLOSED til 3pm today! (Saturday 8th March 2014)

Saturday, March 8th, 2014 - Posted by Danie

LUBEPlease note that our Sutton centre is CLOSED until 3pm today as we are hosting the Final round of the London Universities Boulder Events.

The centre and all of the new problems which have been specially set for today’s event will open and available for use from 3pm with the centre closing at the normal time of 7pm today.

New problems range in grade from 3 to 7b so there is something new for everyone – this is in addition to the new set of problems which have gone up in the Rock Room this week!

Normal opening will resume tomorrow.


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BMC Leading Ladder comes to Guildford!

Saturday, February 8th, 2014 - Posted by Danie

BMC Leading LadderThe BMC Leading Ladder is a fun lead climbing competition running throughout the UK over the winter in 2013-2014. Taking part is the ideal way to keep yourself motivated during the indoor winter season.  Craggy Island in Guildford are hosting the final round for this regional series and the Ladder will be taking place from Saturday 8th until Sunday 23rd of February 2014.

Each participating wall sets ten BMC Leading Ladder routes ranging from F5+ to 8a.  You have two weeks in which to climb these routes. At the end of the series there will be a Grand Final on 22 March 2014 at the Beacon Climbing Centre, Caenarfon.  To be considered for the final you must compete in at least two rounds.

All of the specially set routes are on lines 7, 8 & 9 and they are labelled and ready to go right now! The routes are available for all to climb (including anyone not competing in the Ladder) but we do ask that you be kind enough to give priority to any climber that is competing in the Ladder.

The Ladder is open for all to enter!  You do not need to have pre-registered so if you like the look of the routes and want to see how you compare with others on them then you may want to buy a scorecard (just £1 from Reception!) and get involved.

If you need any further info, please contact

New routes on lines 7, 8 & 9!

Scoring and results

For results for each round – click here

There are four age/gender categories:  female under 16 / female 16+ / male under 16 / male 16+. To take part all you need to do is purchase a scorecard (£1) from Reception, complete it and return it to Reception at the end of the round.  We will then send the scorecards to the BMC for inclusion in the results.

Competitor rankings from each round of the series are published after each round has finished. No scores will be published with the rankings. Scores will be published at the end of the series when each age/gender category will be split into three ability categories: Elite, Intermediate and Novice.  A climber’s final result will be their average score over the number of rounds they have completed.

Qualifying for the final

The ten highest scoring climbers from each of the ability categories will qualify for the Grand Final. You must be a BMC member to take part in the final.  If a category quota is not full there will be no substitutions for climbers who have not competed in at least 2 rounds.

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Getting Ready For Autumn…

Tuesday, September 3rd, 2013 - Posted by Cliff Hanger

Well we hate to say it but summer sunshine may soon be but a memory, so we have been getting the centre ready for the new season and setting a lot of new routes. For starters last week the main overhang has been totally changed, volumes have been repositioned and new routes have been put up. The verdict so far is that this set is a bit special with tons of stuff to go at in the 6a – 6c grades plus the usual project routes up to 7c with an easier 5c on most lines.  Not enough? OK the stack lead lines have also been re set this week to add to the top rope lines having been re set 3 weeks previously. A totally new boulder set which is generating a lot of happy faces! We are also printing A5 sheets with all the routes listed out which you can use as a tick sheet, so remember to ask for a copy when you arrive at reception.

Photo; Lucy Bradbury a member of the Craggy Youth Team arrived at the centre first thing this morning after her summer holidays – climbing the new routes on ‘the stack’. Lucy says “I can’t believe all the new routes that have gone up, its just fantastic, so much to go at!”

Lucy Bradbury climbing the stack

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Introducing Gavin Symonds – Guest Route Setter for June in Guildford!

Monday, June 10th, 2013 - Posted by Danie

GavHave you heard of Deep Water Soloing?  Well, for those of you that haven’t, it’s a form of rock climbing which is carried out on sea cliffs – free from the restrictions of ropes and harnesses…

Gavin is one of the pioneers of this niche discipline and has travelled and climbed extensively to not only enjoy the sport but pave the way for new, hard and bold climbs throughout the World.  His tick list in the UK alone includes:

Windowchrome, Lulworth: 8a+
San Simeon, Pembroke: 8a
Christine, Devon: 8a
Cutlass, Devon: 8a+

Gavin is not only renowned for his ability as a solo climber.  With his ascent of Poppy, 8b+ at Anstey’s Cove in Devon it really does put him amongst the best in the World.

So, what does this climbing hero have to offer as a route setter?  With his wealth of experience of climbing both in the UK and abroad Gavin offers fantastically challenging routes to all level of climber using his knowledge of different rock types to create his climbs.  He is one of the most prevalent route setters in the country and renowned for not only his routes but boulder problems too.  As an added bonus, Pip, his adorable Cocker Spaniel is never far away and always happy to have a cuddle!

Gav will be setting top ropes and lead climbs for us on Tuesday 25th of June – complimenting the regular setting already carried out by our in-house team.

We’re proud to work with the best setters in the UK – this policy has been brought in to reinforce our commitment to bringing you the best indoor climbing facilities in the South-East!  Watch this space for announcements on more guest route setters as they come in.


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New Boulder Problems today at Guildford!

Thursday, May 16th, 2013 - Posted by Danie

Gaz Parry Mark Croxall Setting Craggy Island Guildford

Gaz and Mark having a little bonding break whilst setting the Boulder Wall at Guildford today!

It’s Boulder Wall Day today at Guildford!  We have our very own in-house legend Mark Croxall working with Guest Setter and all-round amazing climber and lovely chap Gareth Parry.

You may well have heard of Gaz already as he has not only been around since time began (he might just hurt me for saying that…!) but he’s achieved a huge amount during his 28 years of climbing – many of which have been at the very top end of the sport.

Gaz has been British Champion 7 times, climbed the world’s highest sea cliff, bouldered 8B, climbed 8c+ and onsighted 8a+.

However, Gaz is not just a fantastic climber.  He is also one of the UK’s most accomplished route setters and has made a name for himself not just setting routes for everyday enjoyment but also for high-level competitions.  His most recent collaboration has been as a part of the Blocfest Team – an extremely successful series of bouldering events held throughout the South of England during the winter of 2012-2013.

Gaz is sponsored by BorealDMMTCA and Mountain Hardwear.

The Boulder Wall routes are changed every month – this means we take all the holds off…  Jet-wash them clean…  And put them back on again as a new set of funky and fun new problems for you to tackle.  There are in the region of 45 new problems set each month.

We aim to get the boulder wall open by 7pm each time we change it.  There is always a delay between the setting being finished and the wall opening so that we can ensure all of the holds are safe and ready to use as we do our absolute best to avoid any spinners!  During this time the setters will aim to climb all of the problems (or at least pull on the holds) and then decide on the grades.

Make sure you come down for a play later!



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Craggy2 Winter Boulder League Round 2 Results

Friday, March 8th, 2013 - Posted by Cliff Hanger

Thank you to everyone who took part last night, a truly entertaining evening for all… The staff here at Craggy 2 are very much looking forward to trying all those routes you made look so effortless. But enough of the small talk – to the results!;

Winter 2013 Results
Hard Category
Position First Name Surname Rnd 1 Rnd 2 Rnd 3 Rnd 4 Total Average
1 Adam Dunderdale   107     107 107.00
2 Laurena ?   104     104 104.00
3 Peter Boughton 27 54     81 40.50
4 Thomas Foschini 70       70 70.00
5 Gabriel ? 54       54 54.00
6 Ashley Scott 10 24     34 17.00
Medium Category  
Position First Name Surname Rnd 1 Rnd 2 Rnd 3 Rnd 4 Total Average
1 Robert Hepburn 71 107     178 89
2 Peter Boughton 77 94     171 85.5
3 Jonathan Stubbings 51 81     132 66
4 Nick Topp 64 60     124 62
5 David Abbott 118       118 118
6 Matthew Zaczek   101     101 101
7 Mark Stubbings 37 57     94 47
8 Jason Hawksworth   92     92 92
9 Sarah Solomon 90       90 90
10 Matthew Bauzer? 77       77 77
11 John O’Donnell   74     74 74
12 Jan Hofheiz   70     70 70
12 Olivia Hawksworth 70       70 70
13 Les Tait   57     57 57
14 Jade ? 40       40 40
15 The man with no name 37       37 37
Easy Category  
Position First Name Surname Rnd 1 Rnd 2 Rnd 3 Rnd 4 Total Average
1 Kyle Hepburn 137 140     277 138.50
2 Sheldon Ford 141       141 141.00
3 Moel Kennedy 140       140 140.00
4 Josiah Eyeington 138       138 138.00
5 Richard Nash 137       137 137.00
6 Rianna Stuart 120       120 120.00
6 Lorraine Thurlow   120     120 120.00
7 John Gould 110       110 110.00
7 Lexi Pares   110     110 110.00
7 Richard Harvey 110       110 110.00
8 Jimmy Nicholls 100       100 100.00
8 Sean Hewett 100       100 100.00
9 Luke ?   90     90 90.00

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